If you’ve never heard of the River Cleddau, you’re not alone. This gentle river runs through the heart of Pembrokeshire, carving out valleys, feeding wetlands, and giving life to a variety of wildlife. It’s not a tourist hotspot like the Severn, but that’s exactly why it feels special – you can wander without crowds and still soak up spectacular views.
The Cleddau actually splits into two main branches – the Eastern and Western Cleddau – before they meet at the town of Haverfordwest. From there the river widens into the Cleddau Estuary, which opens into the Milford Haven Waterway, one of the world’s deepest natural harbours. The whole system is a patchwork of rolling hills, historic villages, and lush marshes, making it a perfect spot for anyone who loves nature and a bit of quiet adventure.
First off, the wildlife is impressive. Otters, kingfishers, and even the occasional barn owl call the banks home. In the spring, the riverbanks burst into colour with bluebells and wild garlic. Birdwatchers flock (pun intended) to the estuary because it’s a stop‑over for migrating geese and ducks.
Second, the river isn’t just pretty – it’s useful. Historically it powered mills and helped local agriculture. Today, you’ll still see old stone bridges and the remnants of water‑wheel sites, giving you a glimpse into Pembrokeshire’s industrial past.
Finally, the Cleddau is incredibly accessible. You can drive to the Eastern Cleddau near Llangolman for a short riverside walk, or head to the Western Cleddau near Scleddau for a longer hike that follows the river through forest and open fields. Public transport is limited, so a car is handy, but the roads are narrow and charming, adding to the experience.
Walking and hiking. The Cleddau Trail links several footpaths, giving you options from easy strolls to more demanding sections that climb up the surrounding hills. The section between Haverfordwest and St. Dogmaels is especially popular – you’ll get river views, historic sites, and plenty of spots to picnic.
Kayaking and canoeing. The river’s flow is generally calm, making it ideal for beginners. You can launch from Haverfordwest or from smaller access points along the estuary. Renting a kayak for a few hours lets you see the wetlands from a different angle and sometimes spot wildlife you’d miss on land.
Fishing. If you’re into angling, the Cleddau holds brown trout and a few sea trout that travel up from the estuary. You’ll need a local permit, which you can get from the Pembrokeshire Angling Association. Early morning is the best time – the river is quiet, and the fish are more active.
History and culture. Stop by the Haverfordwest Museum to learn about the river’s role in the town’s growth. Also, don’t miss the ruins of St. Peter’s Church near Llawhaden, which sits right beside the water and offers stunning photo opportunities.
Whether you’re after a lazy walk, a splash of adventure, or a quiet spot to watch birds, River Cleddau delivers. It’s a low‑key destination that packs a lot of scenery, wildlife, and history into a relatively small area. So next time you’re planning a trip to Wales, give the Cleddau a chance – you might find your new favourite river getaway.
Nerys Lloyd, a former Welsh police officer, was jailed for 10.5 years after gross negligence led to four deaths during a hazardous paddleboarding trip on the River Cleddau. The tragedy exposes serious gaps in safety and oversight within adventure tourism.
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